The internet at the hostel has been out of action for two days, so plenty to catch up on. On Sunday we caught a bus to the Feria de Mataderos, which is about an hour away from central Buenos Aires and traditionally where the city´s slaughterhouses were located. Now home to the most incredible gaucho market on Sundays, where you can watch traditional dancing (and the locals who dance in the streets) and listen to singing, eat amazing steaks and sausages straight off the estancias and shop for local leather, silver and assorted trinkets. We wandered about for a few hours enjoying the atmosphere and beautiful sunny day, then headed back to the hostel in the afternoon to catch the Superclassico. That being a football match between rival Argentinian teams Boca Juniors and River Plate, also known as the biggest football derby in the world. As we strolled back to Millhouse the streets (except around the Obelisk, the big monument in the city where the fans celebrate after matches) were practically deserted as people watched the match. 70% of all Argentinians support one of these two teams so it´s a HUGE deal.
Today was a bit of a disaster frankly. In the morning we caught the bus to San Antonio de Areco, which is supposedly the spiritual home of the Argentine cowboy and a great little town (not that we saw it). After three hours on the bus we started to wonder if we´d missed our stop. We had. As usual the lovely and accomodating Argentinian people helped us out, putting us on a bus back to Areco free of charge. Unfortunately by the time we got there, we only had half an hour until our return bus arrived. So we had a quick steak sandwich from a local parilla and then got back on the bus. I can tell you that part of the country (it´s about 110km North of Buenos Aires) is very beautiful and full of estancias (ranches) and horses and cows. But unfortunately that's really all I can tell you.
Right, off to get an early night as we have a big one tomorrow, heading to a Millonga (tango club) with a friend who is visiting, to learn some moves and I´m sure enjoy a glass or three of local wine...
Monday 26 October 2009
Friday 23 October 2009
Buenos Aires IV, Argentina...
Despite a rubbish weather forecast it was a beautiful day in Buenos Aires today, with the sun was beating down, so we strolled down Calle Florida for a pizza picnic in Plaza San Martin at lunchtime, then headed to Retiro station to book our bus to our next stop - Puerto Madryn in Patagonia. It´s a 19 hour bus ride and I´m so excited about the place. After the bustle of Buenos Aires I can´t wait to get out into the wilds and hopefully see whales, penguins and walruses. There are also two little Welsh towns nearby called Trelew and Gaiman (which I find really bizarre... Wales, in Patagonia?) which will be fascinating to see.
Next we wandered to Recoleta, a very fancy area of the city (I felt a bit ´travelly´ to pop into Louis Vuitton or Hermes) and into the beautiful cemetery, where Eva Peron is buried. After getting lost in the maze of incredible tombs (this isn´t like your average cemetary, each tomb is basically a mini church) we came across Evita´s grave which is still covered with flowers and had a drawn a little crowd. On the way home we stopped for some Mango Maracuya ice cream at Freddo´s, which I´m told is the best in Argentina (it was amazing) and listened to a fantastic Bossa band in the street which drew a huge crowd of very ´Friday feeling´ looking locals. We´re back at the hostel now ready for a bit of a siesta before we head out for dinner and drinks at a very popular bar called La Cigale. Happy Friday everyone!
Next we wandered to Recoleta, a very fancy area of the city (I felt a bit ´travelly´ to pop into Louis Vuitton or Hermes) and into the beautiful cemetery, where Eva Peron is buried. After getting lost in the maze of incredible tombs (this isn´t like your average cemetary, each tomb is basically a mini church) we came across Evita´s grave which is still covered with flowers and had a drawn a little crowd. On the way home we stopped for some Mango Maracuya ice cream at Freddo´s, which I´m told is the best in Argentina (it was amazing) and listened to a fantastic Bossa band in the street which drew a huge crowd of very ´Friday feeling´ looking locals. We´re back at the hostel now ready for a bit of a siesta before we head out for dinner and drinks at a very popular bar called La Cigale. Happy Friday everyone!
Buenos Aires III, Argentina...
Thursday was spent exploring La Boca, home of the Caminito and Boca Juniors´ famous football stadium. Also home to some quite unsavoury characters and scary looking dogs. It became rather apparent that we were in the wrong part of town when someone cycling past shouted 'Get out of here, what are you doing here!' and an elderly Argentinian woman, obviously fearing for our lives, grabbed us by the arm and tried to steer us towards the bus station.
So, after an incredible lunch of lomo steak at a local and hugely popular restaurant called El Obero we caught a taxi to the Caminito. I loved seeing the colourful buildings, created in the 1950s by Benito Quinquela Martin, but the Caminito is a real tourist trap. You can´t walk for three metres without someone shoving a leaflet in your face for a free tango show or cheap meal. So we checked it out and then headed swiftly back through the lovely old streets of San Telmo and to the Millhouse for a siesta.
In the evening we discovered Guerrin, an old-style Buenos Aires pizza parlour from the 1930s on Avenida Corrientes where we had a delicious grande Napolitana for the equivalent of about 2 pounds 20 each. Today we plan to head to the bus station to check out buses to Patagonia (we leave in a few days) and then on to Recoleta to see Eva Peron´s grave. Don't cry for me Argentina...
So, after an incredible lunch of lomo steak at a local and hugely popular restaurant called El Obero we caught a taxi to the Caminito. I loved seeing the colourful buildings, created in the 1950s by Benito Quinquela Martin, but the Caminito is a real tourist trap. You can´t walk for three metres without someone shoving a leaflet in your face for a free tango show or cheap meal. So we checked it out and then headed swiftly back through the lovely old streets of San Telmo and to the Millhouse for a siesta.
In the evening we discovered Guerrin, an old-style Buenos Aires pizza parlour from the 1930s on Avenida Corrientes where we had a delicious grande Napolitana for the equivalent of about 2 pounds 20 each. Today we plan to head to the bus station to check out buses to Patagonia (we leave in a few days) and then on to Recoleta to see Eva Peron´s grave. Don't cry for me Argentina...
Thursday 22 October 2009
Buenos Aires II, Argentina...
So yesterday was spent sampling all the delights Buenos Aires has to offer. We headed to Cafe Tortoni for coffee and medialunas (mini croissants), the cafe is over 150 years old (it opened in 1858) and famous writers like Borges used to frequent it. More recently Hilary Clinton has popped in for a coffee.
Next we took a long walk to Palermo, which is the fancy part of the city, and stopped at a very English-esque pub on Humboldt called (ironically) Bangalore, for a couple of pints of Quilmes. Finally we went to La Cupertina which is an amazing little restaurant where Danny had an Argentinian stew and I had incredible steak and queso on flat bread, all washed down with a bottle of Malbec red from Mendoza - I of course promptly smashed my glass and spilled it everywhere - but when the whole meal plus wine cost less than a fiver each who cares! (Probably the poor waitress who had to clear it up I hear you say... Well, yes there is that).
Right, we´re off now to explore the La Boca area of the city (and maybe see if we can get tickets to Argentina´s biggest football match this weekend, Boca Juniors V Riverplate) and also check out the Camanito. Oh, and we´ve learnt a few beginner steps of tango in preparation for La Catedral, the Milonga we are heading to next week. Strictly Come Dancing watch out...
Next we took a long walk to Palermo, which is the fancy part of the city, and stopped at a very English-esque pub on Humboldt called (ironically) Bangalore, for a couple of pints of Quilmes. Finally we went to La Cupertina which is an amazing little restaurant where Danny had an Argentinian stew and I had incredible steak and queso on flat bread, all washed down with a bottle of Malbec red from Mendoza - I of course promptly smashed my glass and spilled it everywhere - but when the whole meal plus wine cost less than a fiver each who cares! (Probably the poor waitress who had to clear it up I hear you say... Well, yes there is that).
Right, we´re off now to explore the La Boca area of the city (and maybe see if we can get tickets to Argentina´s biggest football match this weekend, Boca Juniors V Riverplate) and also check out the Camanito. Oh, and we´ve learnt a few beginner steps of tango in preparation for La Catedral, the Milonga we are heading to next week. Strictly Come Dancing watch out...
Tuesday 20 October 2009
Buenos Aires, Argentina...
Right, in the spirit of keeping this bad boy up to date I am reporting from day two of Buenos Aires. As previously mentioned we arrived after a 20 hour bus journey and checked into our hostel, which is gorgeous (apart from irritating American partyboy roomates who make you do shots of whisky the moment you walk in the door) and right in the centre of BA. You get free breakfast and the room for less than seven pounds a night which can´t be sniffed at!
Anyway, yesterday we settled in and then headed out for a drink at about 5.30pm, when the sun was still blazing, and sat at a little pavement cafe drinking Quilmes (Argentinian beer) and enjoying the rays. Then we walked up Avenida Defensa towards the San Telmo area of the city which is all very pretty nineteenth century buildings and found a little piazza outside, where we came across some live tango dancers. Next we headed to a really popular parilla (steakhouse) called Desnivel for dinner where we had the most beautifully tender sirloin steaks for next to nothing.
Today we got up early and enjoyed the free breakfast, including the local speciality Dulce de Leche (which is a caramel/milk thing that they put on croissants and in ice creams) mmmm, then headed out for a walk along the shopping area of Calle Florida which ends at the Piazza San Martin, a lovely park to chill out in and have a bit of a picnic (which we did, obviously). Then wandered into San Telmo to check out more antique shops - this place is a vintage shoppers absolute heaven, and so cheap - and I got a gorgeous hand knitted alpaca sweater for the equivalent of 11 pounds. I love Buenos Aires! Finally we stopped for a little vino tinto refreshment (well, when in Rome!) before heading back to the hostel where we are now. We´re going for Burritos tonight, and strolling through the parks in Palermo tomorow. So until then...
Anyway, yesterday we settled in and then headed out for a drink at about 5.30pm, when the sun was still blazing, and sat at a little pavement cafe drinking Quilmes (Argentinian beer) and enjoying the rays. Then we walked up Avenida Defensa towards the San Telmo area of the city which is all very pretty nineteenth century buildings and found a little piazza outside, where we came across some live tango dancers. Next we headed to a really popular parilla (steakhouse) called Desnivel for dinner where we had the most beautifully tender sirloin steaks for next to nothing.
Today we got up early and enjoyed the free breakfast, including the local speciality Dulce de Leche (which is a caramel/milk thing that they put on croissants and in ice creams) mmmm, then headed out for a walk along the shopping area of Calle Florida which ends at the Piazza San Martin, a lovely park to chill out in and have a bit of a picnic (which we did, obviously). Then wandered into San Telmo to check out more antique shops - this place is a vintage shoppers absolute heaven, and so cheap - and I got a gorgeous hand knitted alpaca sweater for the equivalent of 11 pounds. I love Buenos Aires! Finally we stopped for a little vino tinto refreshment (well, when in Rome!) before heading back to the hostel where we are now. We´re going for Burritos tonight, and strolling through the parks in Palermo tomorow. So until then...
Monday 19 October 2009
Iguazu Falls, Argentina...
Right, I have been a bit slack on this thing so just trying to rack the old brainio on what´s new since last time(we´re in Argentina now). So here goes. For my first ever football match we headed to the Maracana stadium in Rio to watch Sao Paulo play Flamengo, which was incredible. The atmosphere was absolutely electric with the fans chanting, drumming, letting and off flares (the home team won). Its the biggest stadium in the whole world, at 110,000 capacity.
Next we went to the Corcovado to see the statue of Christ the Redeemer which looks out over Rio, and after a mere five hours of queuing, (yep we picked a public holiday - during which time we met a very friendly Indian doctor who Danny discussed all matter of subjects with from history to religion to sport while I looked on in a mixture of confusion and boredom) we chugged up the mountain until we reached the top and saw the 1000 tonne Jesus and lots of nuns and a chapel. The view from the summit was absolutely beautiful - you can see the whole city as well as the lagoon, the Guanabara bay and Sugarloaf Mountain. It got even better after sunset when all the twinkly, sparkly lights lit up the city.
And so we left Rio, and headed up to the breathtaking Iguacu falls on a 24 hour bus journey, which actually wasn´t bad despite several noisy coughers on the bus, (they always make me feel ill by association) and a bit of a toilet smell. We checked into hostel Bambu, a very cute homely little place and then headed out to see the unbelievable panoramic view from the Brazilian side of the falls, getting absolutely soaked in the process from a storm and the falls which spray out gigantic clouds of water.
Next we packed up and crossed the border into Argentina. You can get much more up close and personal with the falls on the Argentinian side and on the second day when the sun finally came out we walked the Sendero Macuco trail, spotting monkeys, multicoloured butterflies, toucans and iguanas, before taking a dip in the natural pool fed by a waterfall at the end of the path. Unprepared as usual in flip flops, the walk was horrendously muddy and every step sent a spray of mud and assorted jungle creatures - giant ants, frogs, crazy spiders etc - up into the air and then back down onto us with a splat. But it was all worth it!
The next day we took a 20 hour bus ride to Buenos Aires where we´ve just arrived to. First impressions are that the people here are incredibly friendly (at the metro a man asked me if I needed help understanding the map, you wouldn't get that in London) and the staff at the hostel (we´re staying at the Millhouse in the centre of town) are uber helpful. So so far so good. Right I´m off to get my bearings, take a shower and reward myself with some Argentinian red wine and maybe a little steak. Yes! Bye for now...
Next we went to the Corcovado to see the statue of Christ the Redeemer which looks out over Rio, and after a mere five hours of queuing, (yep we picked a public holiday - during which time we met a very friendly Indian doctor who Danny discussed all matter of subjects with from history to religion to sport while I looked on in a mixture of confusion and boredom) we chugged up the mountain until we reached the top and saw the 1000 tonne Jesus and lots of nuns and a chapel. The view from the summit was absolutely beautiful - you can see the whole city as well as the lagoon, the Guanabara bay and Sugarloaf Mountain. It got even better after sunset when all the twinkly, sparkly lights lit up the city.
And so we left Rio, and headed up to the breathtaking Iguacu falls on a 24 hour bus journey, which actually wasn´t bad despite several noisy coughers on the bus, (they always make me feel ill by association) and a bit of a toilet smell. We checked into hostel Bambu, a very cute homely little place and then headed out to see the unbelievable panoramic view from the Brazilian side of the falls, getting absolutely soaked in the process from a storm and the falls which spray out gigantic clouds of water.
Next we packed up and crossed the border into Argentina. You can get much more up close and personal with the falls on the Argentinian side and on the second day when the sun finally came out we walked the Sendero Macuco trail, spotting monkeys, multicoloured butterflies, toucans and iguanas, before taking a dip in the natural pool fed by a waterfall at the end of the path. Unprepared as usual in flip flops, the walk was horrendously muddy and every step sent a spray of mud and assorted jungle creatures - giant ants, frogs, crazy spiders etc - up into the air and then back down onto us with a splat. But it was all worth it!
The next day we took a 20 hour bus ride to Buenos Aires where we´ve just arrived to. First impressions are that the people here are incredibly friendly (at the metro a man asked me if I needed help understanding the map, you wouldn't get that in London) and the staff at the hostel (we´re staying at the Millhouse in the centre of town) are uber helpful. So so far so good. Right I´m off to get my bearings, take a shower and reward myself with some Argentinian red wine and maybe a little steak. Yes! Bye for now...
Friday 9 October 2009
Rio de Janeiro II, Brazil...
Rain rain go a-bloody-way! It´s been raining now for two days, but that hasn´t stopped us from getting out and exploring. Since the last post we´ve been to Uruguaina market, which was pretty crazy and full of locals, rather than tourists. Great, but no chance of finding a postcard of bikini clad Brazilians to put a smile on grandad's face! Today we´re heading to Hawker Stalls market in Sao Cristovado and the food and flower market in Ipanema, and tonight up to Lapa to join the samba party in the streets. Areeeeeeeeeba! Then when the sun comes out on Sunday we´ll go and see Christ the Redeemer and Sugarloaf, the hippy market and escadaria selaron (the tiled steps where Pharell and Snoop Dawg filmed their 'Beautiful' video). Would love to take a trip to Maracana stadium, but Danny would rather wait until Argentina and go and see Boca Juniors play River Plate. (Look at me all knowledgeable about football and stuff).
FOOD NOTE: Love, love, loving the street food, especially tapioca, very bargainous way to fill up. And the vitaminas (fruit juices with milk) and sucos. Will also try one of the many ´weigh and pay´buffets today.
BEAUTY NOTE: Brazil´s voltage is too low for my hair straighteners. Disaster! We have now entered a ´no pictures´ zone.
FOOD NOTE: Love, love, loving the street food, especially tapioca, very bargainous way to fill up. And the vitaminas (fruit juices with milk) and sucos. Will also try one of the many ´weigh and pay´buffets today.
BEAUTY NOTE: Brazil´s voltage is too low for my hair straighteners. Disaster! We have now entered a ´no pictures´ zone.
Wednesday 7 October 2009
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil...
Oi (that´s Portugese for hello) from Brazil! So we made it after a very teary goodbye to the parents at the airport and 11 hours of trying to avoid deep vein thrombosis and enjoying free nerve-calming gin and tonics/red wine on the flight - thanks BA! And now we´ve been here five days, waking up to the sound of monkeys and tropical birds (rather than foxes and pigeons), slowly adjusting to the jetlag - although I´m still waking up at 6.30am everyday - and just generally getting to know Rio slowly but surely; our motto for this trip being, ´It´s a marathon not a sprint.´ (Because we.are.cool.com).
Highlights thus far: Cinelandia and the financial district (dodgy on a Sunday but packed with suits in the week), catching the tram up into the favelas and Santa Theresa and stopping at a little bar which was possibly the cutest place ever, and walking all the way from Leme to Leblon on the sand (which covers all of Copacabana and Ipanema). It took 6 hours in 30 degree heat (so we needed to stop off for Brahma and drink green coconuts, obvs) and I now have the most exfoliated feet ever, a tan and tight bum muscles - a recommended beauty treatment!
We´ve figured out the buses and the metro (it´s amazing how quickly a place starts to become familiar) despite the only word we seem to have learnt so far being ´thankyou.´ Well, Danny has... I´m still wondering if I'm supposed to say 'Obrigada´ rather than ´Obrigado,' (so I´ve taken the sensible approach and started to mumble the end bit). We´ve also just moved into a 24 bed dorm in Mellow Yellows. For 8 quid a night you get the bed, free breakfast, free internet and a free Caiprinha at Happy Hour. Bargain!
Highlights thus far: Cinelandia and the financial district (dodgy on a Sunday but packed with suits in the week), catching the tram up into the favelas and Santa Theresa and stopping at a little bar which was possibly the cutest place ever, and walking all the way from Leme to Leblon on the sand (which covers all of Copacabana and Ipanema). It took 6 hours in 30 degree heat (so we needed to stop off for Brahma and drink green coconuts, obvs) and I now have the most exfoliated feet ever, a tan and tight bum muscles - a recommended beauty treatment!
We´ve figured out the buses and the metro (it´s amazing how quickly a place starts to become familiar) despite the only word we seem to have learnt so far being ´thankyou.´ Well, Danny has... I´m still wondering if I'm supposed to say 'Obrigada´ rather than ´Obrigado,' (so I´ve taken the sensible approach and started to mumble the end bit). We´ve also just moved into a 24 bed dorm in Mellow Yellows. For 8 quid a night you get the bed, free breakfast, free internet and a free Caiprinha at Happy Hour. Bargain!
Today´s plan... If it´s clear, a trip up to Sugarloaf mountain (I want to go at sunset). Tchau for now!
FASHION NOTE: (Because it wouldn´t be right if I didn´t)... Brazilian women wear mismatching bikinis and embrace their curly hair. Not quite ready to let go of the straighteners yet, but watch this space...
FASHION NOTE: (Because it wouldn´t be right if I didn´t)... Brazilian women wear mismatching bikinis and embrace their curly hair. Not quite ready to let go of the straighteners yet, but watch this space...
Friday 2 October 2009
I can add pictures and everything...
Not a fashion writer anymore! Bye bye clean clothes, beauty products and heels...
Countdown to Rio - 23 hours and 16 minutes. Waaaaah!
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